Magnolia Plantation and Gardens, 3550 Ashley River Road, Charleston
Every corner of Charleston carries the unmistakable handprints of Gullah culture. It’s in the heavy scent of the salt marsh, the rich Lowcountry earth, and the distinct, melodic voices that carry the tunes of our past. This African American legacy makes Charleston the obvious choice for our first issue of From the Clay.
Ladies, look no further for your next destination. Whether it’s a family vacation, a girls' trip, or a solo retreat, Charleston is the answer. If you are like me, you are a traveler who craves cultural enlightenment along with vibrant experiences—someone who values unforgettable fun just as much as deep history.
In this issue, we dive deep into the rich Gullah history of Charleston. You’ll link the city's modern cuisine, vibrant activities, and world-class museums back to its soulful past.
400-Yr-Old “Angel Oak Tree”
Mother Emanuel AME Church
The Ancestral Landscape
So many Africans entered the U.S. through Charleston during the transatlantic slave trade, that experts like Michael B. Moore say that about 80% of African Americans can trace at least one relative to this area. Through their heartaches and pain sprouted a new way of life—new words, new rhythms, new traditions. The culture that emerged came to be known as Gullah.
This culture didn't just survive; it engineered the very landscape of the Lowcountry. The West and Central Africans who were forced to the Americas were not merely laborers; they were agricultural experts. In fact, they were targeted for their specialized expertise in cultivation. History books often omit the sophisticated knowledge of hydraulics and rice farming they possessed. They cleared dense cypress swamps, built complex systems of natural levees, and turned the treacherous coastal marshes into an economic empire known across the globe as the "Rice Coast."
Because the grueling labor and humid climate drove plantation owners inland for much of the year, the enslaved population vastly outnumbered the white population along the coast. Left largely to themselves on isolated sea islands and remote river networks, the people successfully guarded their heritage. While enslaved people elsewhere were stripped of their former identity, those on the coast who would become known as “Gullah” were never programmed to leave theirs behind. They blended various West African languages into a distinct English-based creole, maintained deep communal and spiritual traditions like the Ring Shout, and passed down intricate skills like sewing sweetgrass baskets—a direct cousin to the coil baskets of Sierra Leone.
Corey Alston, 5th-Generation Sweetgrass Weaver from Charleston
Today, this rich heritage isn't confined to museum glass; it is the living breathing soul of the city. When you walk down the cobblestone streets, you are walking past bricks literally molded by Gullah hands. When you eat a bowl of Charleston's celebrated she-crab soup or red rice, you are tasting a culinary lineage born, in part, out of West African kitchens. The rhythms of the past are still echoing in the present.
As we step out into modern Charleston, we aren't just visiting a destination; we are returning to a foundational home. Let’s look at how that ancestral spirit continues to thrive in the city's modern spaces.
Gullah Tradition
Pineapple Fountain
Sweetgrass Baskets
Your Three-Day Itinerary
Friday: The Arrival & Living History
1:00 PM | Step Into the Story: Before you even check into your hotel, jump headfirst into the city's living history. Make reservations ahead of time, and then take the two-hour Gullah Tour with renowned Alphonso Brown. Expect to see one of the stops on the historic Underground Railroad, Emanuel AME Church, Catfish Row, and so much more!
3:00 PM | Unpack & Reset: Check in at HarbourView Inn for a cozy stay downtown where you can enjoy a beautiful view from its private rooftop terrace. For a more economical stay or proximity to the airport in North Charleston, consider the DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel.
7:00 PM | The Welcome Dinner: Soothe your taste buds with the rich flavors of West African cuisine by having dinner at Bintu Atelier Restaurant. Thieboudienne, the national dish of Senegal, is a must-try! This flavorful dish of rice, vegetables, and fish is served only on Fridays and Saturdays. Reservations are highly recommended.
Saturday: Sacred Grounds & Lowcountry Waters
9:30 AM | A Satisfying Start: Start the day with a filling breakfast or brunch at Kiki’s Chicken and Waffles (5623 Rivers Avenue). You will taste in only a few bites why this Black-owned restaurant quickly expanded into multiple locations.
12:00 PM | The International African American Museum: A ticket is required to explore the museum’s inside exhibits, which contain some of the rarest artifacts from around the globe. The outside spaces, however, are free and open to the public. Expect a profound, deeply emotional experience particularly outside at Gadsden’s Wharf, which was the historic port of entry where tens of thousands of enslaved Africans first stepped onto this continent.
4:00 PM | Casual Crabbing with Tia: After absorbing so much knowledge at the museum, loosen up with a one-of-a-kind experience of Casual Crabbing With Tia. This extremely popular outing requires a reservation plus a South Carolina fishing license. Don’t worry; you can get everything you need including the license in a matter of clicks on the website. Give yourself about 50 minutes to drive out and enjoy the scenic Lowcountry marsh views on your way to the dock! This adventure is definitely worth the effort! Tell Tia that we sent you.
Sunday: The Rhythms & The Send-Off
10:00 AM | A Lowcountry Spiritual Experience: Before heading home, exercise “hope, healing, and holiness” during Christian worship service at the historic Mother Emanuel AME Church. This is a place where the music carries the undeniable tunes of our history.
1:00 PM | The Farewell Brunch: Toast to the solo retreaters, the families, and the sisters. Prepare to end the trip with a beautiful soul food brunch at My Three Sons Restaurant, reflecting on how modern Charleston is forever stitched to its ancestral past.
3:00 PM | The Living Masterclass: Head to the Charleston City Market as your trip comes to a close. People from all walks of life gather at this bustling marketplace for shopping, entertainment, souvenirs, and more. Seek out the local Gullah artisans weaving sweetgrass baskets right before your eyes. Witnessing the speed and rhythmic precision of their hands is a masterclass in living history.
Tia Clark, founder of Casual Crabbing With Tia
The Marketplace Spotlight: Extra Lowcountry Gems
If you have a little extra time in the city, want to swap out a meal, or simply want to intentionalize your spending, here are a few more incredible, Black-owned hot spots to consider:
Turning Page Book Shop (Shopping): A phenomenal, Black-woman-owned independent bookstore about 30 minutes from downtown, showcasing a brilliant selection across all genres.
Gullah Geechie Culture Tours (Bus Tour): Five highly informative, immersive tour options owned and operated by renowned historian and licensed tour guide Al Miller.
Lost Stories of Black Charleston (Walking Tour): An incredible 90-minute walking tour performed (not just told!) by Professor Damon Fordham.
Jensa Massage (Spa): Unwind across the river with a luxury facial, therapeutic massage, hot stones, and more just 20 minutes from downtown. They even offer convenient same-day appointments.
Bertha’s Kitchen (Restaurant): A legendary, no-frills soul food landmark. The generational flavors here are a local success—and the rave reviews speak volumes!
What’s Going On In Charleston (Calendar): Take a few minutes to search your specific travel dates here to discover culturally focused community events happening during your stay.
Rainbow Row: Charleston
It is my prayer that this newsletter makes your visit to Charleston smoother and more intentional. Even if you’ve visited the city before, may this venture be filled with a renewed sense of connection and enlightenment. As a people, our American experience has been so filled with disillusionment and hurt that we often forget our power and promise. Let your Charleston experience remind you that our story IS the American story right From The Clay.
Until next time,
Tara Moody
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